Shu Uemura Petal Skin Foundation

Petal Skin Fluid Foundation (S$68) launches today (1 April) in Singapore, and is a welcome addition to Shu Uemura's foundation series. Built around the idea of fresh, smooth "effortlessly radiant" skin that looks like a flower petal, the formula aims to combine semi-matte with semi-glow characteristics in a lightweight, velvety smooth formula that feels comfortable and natural on the skin.

I've been test-trying this for the past few weeks now, and I'll say I love the finish and effect this has on the skin.

When I first saw the name, I expected a lightweight, radiant foundation with very light coverage. The things that surprised me were:

1. the instant pore blurring effect
2. how much like real skin it looked
3. the rather impressive medium coverage despite the light texture

Shu Uemura Petal Skin Foundation before-after: 1 coat

Finish:

My pores instantly looked "filtered" as I rubbed it on. The formula contains a unique volatile fluid that glides over skin and disperses pigments in a thin layer, where they bounce light off in a smooth, even sheet for that smoothed-out effect. It also subtly corrects texture and is not settling into or around pores and fine lines or emphasizing them.

Like the pigments in some of the Lightbulb powders, the ultra-fine reflective powders are also spherical so they don't sit on top of the skin in a matte, cakey layer, but diffuse light so you look "lit from within". I'm endlessly fascinated by formulas that manage to bounce light without making you look shiny or emphasizing all your pores and this one does it very well.

Coverage:

While this doesn't give high coverage like The Lightbulb or Smooth:Fit, it managed to give decent coverage and unify my skin tone quite well. I need less concealer when I use this, but if you have active spots or darker pigmentation to cover,this will not have enough concealing power on its own.

You CAN build this up a bit more, and I did try it with 2 coats (below) for a more perfected look, but I would not advise going any thicker because there's no point in losing that fresh, "my skin but better" effect.

Petal Skin Foundation \: 2 coats 

Lasting Power:

I wore this for full days out, and it holds up beautifully on my normal-ish skin, in humid weather, for about 6 or so hours without any blotting, if I set it with a little loose powder. The formula has been tested in Singapore weather so it is quite humidity- and heat-resistant.

L'oreal True Match Genius 4-in-1 Foundation

L'oreal's launched its new True Match Genius 4-in-1 cream to powder foundation (SGD$32.90), which promises to do 4 things:

1. Smooth like a primer

2. Unify and even out skin tone like a foundation

3. Correct flaws like a concealer

4. Finish and set like a powder for 12 hour wear

Sounds perfect, but I have to admit I am always skeptical about products that claim to"do it all".They tend not to do any one thing particularly well.

Well first off, cream to powders are always incredibly convenient to use, because they go on quickly no matter what tool you use for application; they are portable and travel well unlike bottles of liquid foundation, and on their own they don't look as matte and heavy as compact powder foundations.

Revlon just launched their new Colorstay 2-in-1 foundation compact which I have very mixed feelings about because it's not very long-wearing despite the "Colorstay" name, the shade options are extremely limited, and the concealer formula just isn't that great in my opinion.

So I was interested to see how the L'oreal True Match Genius measured up in comparison.

Presentation and Packaging

You get a very slim, flat compact with a mirror and a thin sponge for application. Standard-issue, no-frills. I did feel there seemed to be VERY little product in the thin, thin pan for what you pay. You get just 7g of product. (Revlon Colorstay has 12.3g.) So if you like to really pack on the foundation or use a buffing brush with this, just be aware that you will hit pan and run out in no time.

The sponge itself is not hard to use but also nothing special. It does the job. I prefer using my fingers to pat the product on personally but the sponge works fine. One small issue is the base of the compact is transparent, so from the back it looks a bit gross to show everyone your stained cakey sponge if you bring it out for touch-ups. You could get around the issue by placing the sponge with the used side up, but that's just an extra inconvenience.

1 - Priming

This is one area I feel the product does excel. I've tried it for several days and never used a primer with it. I do feel L'oreal's "ultra-gliding" formula manages to go on very smoothly and makes skin look more refined and pores a bit smaller.

It also does last and stay pretty fresh-looking for hours in our humid heat without running or caking up, even after sweating and blotting.

2 - Evening out the skin

The product goes on sheerer than I expected. If you rub it on, it almost feels like there is barely any coverage at all, compared to typical cream foundations. That's a bit misleading though - because even though it feels like the product is sheer, I don't really feel like I need a ton more concealer on top to cover my dark circles and marks.

Plus, you can dab on a bit more (I advise using fingers for building up extra coverage) where you need. It's still not full coverage - this will not cover acne and obvious scars. But it does even out mild discolorations and reduce the need for concealer despite being quite lightweight.

3 Conceal and correct

I can't say this can replace your concealer unless you have very minor flaws. It can conceal redness around the nose, small veins, mild discolorations etc. But if you need brightening under the eyes or by the sides of your mouth, or correction of very red or dark spots you will need a separate concealer with different undertones and higher opacity.

I will use this as concealer only in an absolute pinch.

4 - Set and finish like a powder

While this product does set semi-matte and does not stay tacky or creamy, it does not really look like when you set foundation with powder. Also, these days a lot of us use color-correcting or brightening powders that may not be the same shade as our foundation, so True Match Genius cannot be expected to do that.

That doesn't make this a bad thing though. I actually really like the demi-matte finish. It doesn't look flat - as you can see in the pic above, it actually looks pretty undetectable if you find the right shade match. Great for "no-makeup makeup" days.

I don't think I've worn this 12 hours yet but I've done 10 or so without problems. The coverage fades but it doesn't break down like some foundations can. And I didn't get too many problems with obvious oxidation.

But this brings me to one major con; color options.

I was picking on Revlon for bringing so few shades in, and L'oreal has even fewer. There is N1, which I am using - this matches about a MAC N2/NW20/NC25. The only pink-toned shade R1 is actually not very pale. If you are quite fair, you won't be able to find a good match in this entire range. 

The 2 deeper shades are G2 and G4. I had expected that as an NC25, G2 would be my perfect match, but it's more suited to NC30-35 skin tones. Much deeper than I expected. G4 does look like a good fit for NC42 etc medium-tan skins. If you have caramel to deep skin tones, you won't find an option. 

(Why do I feel like I repeat this every single time I review drugstore foundations in Asia? There is an entire segment of the market that is being completely ignored.)

The shades do swatch a tad lighter than they look in the pan, but not as much as Revlon's. And I've always been a bit confused about True Match's marketing angle about "perfectly matching" your skin. It's not like one shade adjusts to match a whole range of skin tones. 

I've tried applying G2 to see if maybe it would be forgiving and just blend in, but it's still visible that it's a bit too deep. Make sure you swatch these to see if you can find a shade that melts into your skin. You are responsible for finding your right shade - just like any other foundation.

 Aside from this, I do actually genuinely feel this is a great formula. If you have combination skin or need something portable and quick for hot humid weather, I find this a much better option than Revlon Colorstay's alternative, although the cost is on the high side for the amount of product you get.

YSL Le Cushion Encre de Peau - Fusion Ink Cushion Foundation

Luxe cushion foundation fans in Singapore can rejoice - YSL has launched their new cushion foundation Le Cushion Encre de Peau yesterday in Singapore, and will follow with launches in other markets globally.

[UPDATE] Made an error on my mobile app and accidentally deleted this post - so I had to redo the entire thing; apologize if the content is not 100% the same - I can't memorize what I wrote but my opinion stays the same!

You know my take on cushion foundations in general: I tend to like them more when they come in bottles and tubes (i.e. I don't love the format at all LOL) because I never touch up liquid foundation on top of existing makeup so I don't need a compact. There is also the hygiene factor, value for money and the fact that most of them cannot "set" fully on the skin since they are designed to remain fluid for months in an exposed sponge pad. Might be alright in cooler drier climates, but usually a disaster in humid tropical weather.

They do give a beautiful look if you like a lot of sheen but many of us feel compelled to set them with powder for lasting power anyway. And even then they don't tend to last as well as most regular foundations. 

So needless to say - I was excited when YSL launched its new Le Cushion Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation, which promises semi-matte all-day flawless coverage. Finally a cushion for slightly oilier skins or more hot and humid weather? Yes please. 

Le Cushion Encre de Peau retails at SG$88 for the case and a single sponge, and subsequent refills can be purchased at $58. 

Packaging:

The packaging is a beauty. Glossy lacquered black and gold to match YSL's glamorous aesthetic, and with a little weight so it doesn't feel cheap and flimsy. You can say it doesn't matter but when you pay this much for a cushion foundation that you presumably will bring out for use, you should expect it to look good.

Inside you get a standard sponge pad filled with foundation, and a black and beige applicator puff which is quite soft and easy to work with. (If you've tried many of the traditional or cheaper cushion ranges, the puffs tend to come extremely stiff and rubbery.)

Shades:

YSL Le Cushion Encre de Peau is available in 6 neutral tones in Singapore (B10 to 60), which is great compared to most other cushions. However this only seems to cater only up to around NC42 or so when I swatched the darkest shade here.

We can only cross our fingers that this is only the case for Asia and that they will add more shades soon. I also need a BD (beige dore) which is golden toned but I am not holding out for yellow toned shades anytime soon as most Western brands don't bother to launch a full range of shades for foundations that are not part of their "core lines".

Do bear in mind that the shades do oxidize. I am MAC NC25 and tend to be between 20 and 30 in YSL shades (BD 15 for Le Teint Encre de Peau which runs a bit deeper) so don't just go with your standard color without testing it on your face first. I went with a B30 the evening I first tried this, and by the time I got home later that night it was looking a little dark.

Coverage:

Le Cushion has pretty good medium-ish coverage. In fact similar to the original Le Teint Encre de Peau foundation. Enough for light discolorations but not for full coverage of larger blemishes.

Of course using a puff will never give you maximum coverage compared to fingers. As with all cushions I will use the puff for a first layer all over and then use my fingers to pat on more product where I want coverage.

Finish:

While it is definitely not as shiny and tacky as other cushions I can't say this really looks and stays demi-matte on the skin for long. Also, the more you pat on the dewier and less matte it gets.

It will take on whatever skin texture you have beneath. So if you use a matte primer it will look more matte. If you use a thick lotion it will be dewy. There just aren't the absorbent fillers like talc, clay, silica etc, needed to absorb moisture and change the texture of your skin significantly and keep it matte for hours. I tested it againt the original Le Teint Encre de Peau Fusion Ink foundation in the squared bottle, which I also patted on using the same puff on one side of my face. It was noticeably more matte than the cushion.

With the cushion I find within about 20-30mins this goes to a dewier finish for me. Which I personally don't mind. But if you expect the shine free wear as stated on the box you might be disappointed. 

Lasting Power:

Here's the thing - it doesn't stay demi-matte but it lasts pretty well for me. 

I was sweating up a storm both days I wore this and while it got shinier, the foundation did stay looking even and fresh underneath. No streaking, caking or congealing around pores for me. When I sweat the beads of water don't "lift off" my foundation, and I can gently press the moisture away without messing up my base.

The formula contains acrylate copolymers (the stuff found in setting sprays, sealing liquids and some long wear foundations) - which explains its ability to adhere to the skin and remain flexible without looking or being powdery. 

VERDICT:

This isn't a god-send for oily skinned folks, especially if you have a lot of contoured blemishes to hide. You would need a lot of powder to matte down the shine and hide skin texture, so I find cushions in general are a waste of time for these skin types.

I find this better for combination to slightly dry skins. There are emollients and the formula is not 100% oil free, which makes it surprisingly comfortable even on my slightly dry skin, but if you cannot have ANY oil in your products, then this won't be for you.

The other thing is not a huge deal but I would obviously wear a separate sunblock; SPF23 PA++ isn't really sufficient unless you have dark skin, which ironically - this line doesn't yet cater to. 

All in all though, this IS the least dewy cushion I've tried so far and YSL wins lots of points for at least trying to cater to a different market and focusing on a formula that is more lasting. For me lasting power (how long it stays looking even and fresh on the skin) is more important than how long it can stay matte. I can blot the shine away; I can't fix patchy cakey makeup without removing it.

When I am in the mood for something that is a it more semi-matte I am just personally more inclined to stick with the original Le Teint Encre de Peau because you get the same lightweight feel with a bit more of a true semi-matte finish.

You always get more product in tubes and bottles than in cushions – let’s not pretend – and with just one refill per pack, this makes YSL Le Cushion Encre de Peau one of the higher-priced cushions on the market. But it’s definitely not “just another cushion” in the sense that there is enough differentiation from the others to be worth a look if you happen to be a luxe cushion fan.