New Diorskin Forever Cushion (and Lip Sugar Scrub) Review

Dior's just launched the brand new Diorskin Forever Cushion, and this latest foundation offering promises to not just be matte and long-wearing but also skin perfecting. As a fan of traditional bottle/tube foundations, I'm always eager to check out matte cushions simply because most have never been able to deliver on the promise of setting matte or staying fresh for hours.

The tropics are a terrible place for cushion foundations. Cushion formulas are lighter and more fluid than bottle foundations; they usually stay moist and don't set quickly or completely. Even the ones targeted at oilier skins tend to be a bit lacking in staying or mattifying power compared to typical bottle or tube formulas. The constant humidity, heat and sweat throughout the day causes them to slide, smear, or oxidize to a different shade, even for someone with normal to dry skin like myself.

I was quite drawn to the new Diorskin Forever Perfect Cushion formula because besides promising a lasting, luminous-matte finish that blurs imperfections and pores, it also contains pore-refining ingredients, and a new color-lock pigment technology that resists oxidation through the day. So I gave this a good test for the whole of the past week.

At SGD$78 for a set of cushion and case, and $59 for just the refill sponge, the pricing is quite standard for a luxe brand. It comes packaged in a sleek midnight blue case with the standard soft patting sponge for quick application on the go.

Texture and scent

The foundation is weightless as you would expect of most cushion formulas. It has a fresh scent that almost smells like cologne. The formula has a light cooling feel on the skin and while it's not meant to be a hydrating formula it still felt comfortable on my dry areas.

Once it's on, it's weightless and there is no tacky or sticky feel after it sets, which is a big plus for me.

Finish

I tried it with a traditional paddle-shaped foundation brush, a buffer brush, an egg-shaped blender sponge as well as cushion puff in the last week. I find I get the most matte finish using the accompanying cushion puff or a blender sponge in a tapping motion. 

The formula does slowly set to a more matte finish after you give it a minute on the skin, and you end up with exactly what it says - a luminous matte finish.

Coverage

This has a light-medium coverage which is buildable to a fuller medium as you can see below. It can cover small marks or uneven skin tone, but will not cover dark circles or blemishes completely. Where it excels is in evening out skin texture and the appearance of pores, without looking too flat or powdery-matte. A "my skin but better" effect.

Diorskin Forever Perfect Cushion applied (right) without concealer or powder

Tip: It's best not to over-apply cushion foundations (regardless of brand) because a very heavy layer will not set the way the manufacturers intended. If you need extra coverage in areas, apply a proper concealer instead. Your makeup will look and last better through the day.

Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation Cushion Compact, Nude Finish Illuminating Powder and Malibu Nudes Collection

Bobbi Brown's launching the new Skin Foundation Cushion Compact SPF50 PA+++ first on 24th March (Takashimaya), then everywhere else on 1 April 2016. 

Available at SGD$21 for the case and $54 for the refill and puff, this is an Asia-exclusive launch, so the bad news is it will not be available in the Western markets. (The good news is there may be something similar coming out for the other markets at a later time, but I don't have any more information on that at this time!)

From 24-30 March 2016, you can purchase 2 refills + case for $108 at Takashimaya.

Skin Foundation Cushion Compact is meant to:

• recharge and rejuvenate - it contains lychee and caffeine, which I am excited about because that can help tone and perk up skin, and also help with puffiness. There is also Pink Silk Tree Extract to calm and soothe skin irritations.
• protect - moisturizers protect the skin barrier and retain moisture, while high SPF protects skin from sun exposure
• create a glowing, flawless finish - the formula is lightweight and gives a glow, but also promises to control oil and brighten the skin without smearing, fading or caking

That certainly sets up very high expectations - moisturizing plus oil-control would be a tough order to fulfill for most formulas. To be honest, I'd just be happy with any cushion that actually sets and does not smear or fade easily. I also really like the idea of a caffeine-containing foundation formula. (The reason they come packed like espresso pods!) Caffeine is what makes Clarins' Shaping Facial Lift work at de-puffing and tightening facial contours, and this makes a great perk-up in the morning if you're slightly puffy.

Another interesting thing is the cushion itself is NOT soaked with foundation. The cream to liquid formula is under the sponge itself, and is "dispensed" in small doses only when you press down each time. It isn't exposed to air so much right from the start.

The coverage is light-medium - it does even out the skin tone a bit, but I find it doesn't build up a whole lot with the puff. I find it easier to use a finger to dab and pat on more coverage where I need. It does brighten and cover circles and sallowness - I have darkness around my chin, eyes and cheeks and this evens everything out while looking quite radiant and natural.

The best part is probably the fact that it does set.
It takes a few minutes, and having some powder will help, but it does eventually set on the skin and become less shiny. It also surprisingly managed to make my pores look less obvious. The finish is more dewy than YSL Le Cushion Encre de Peau, somewhat similar to what you'd get with LANEIGE's Pore Control cushion.

It did stay relatively fresh for me through a day's wear - it didn't fade, smear or get shiny quickly; then again I have rather dry areas and only a slightly oily T-zone. I can say it's fine for combination skins, but I am not able to say based on personal experience if it can stay intact on the very oily. This also didn't noticeably oxidize for me, so that was a good thing.

One thing I did notice is it can sometimes crease under the eyes for me. That's not really a fault of the product because most non-matte foundations tend to do this anyway. If that is a concern for you, you should probably avoid creamy products there.

Another item which has just launched, which I do want to highlight as well - is the new Nude Finish Illuminating Powder.  There are 6 shades available in Singapore (Porcelain is shown here), each priced at SG$83, and each contains a blend of 6 different skin-tone powders with a  beautiful variation of of finishes and undertones. It can be used as an illuminating face powder for all over, or you can pick a lighter or darker shade to highlight or bronze up your face.

I personally feel there is a bit of a sheen and sparkle which makes it not quite so suitable for use as a contour powder. But for highlighting and bronzing it is beautiful. I swept Porcelain around my brow bone and cheekbones below. It's ultra-subtle, soft-focus highlighting, for times when you don't want an obvious dewy or pearly shimmer. Highly recommend checking this powder out.

Then of course, there are the Spring Malibu Nudes collection, which launches 27 March at all Robinsons department stores and island-wide from 7 April. This collection features three blush duos, 6 Art Sticks, and the key piece, the 5-shade Nude on Nude eyeshadow palette ($89). 

Shades from left: Nude (new), Cement, Wheat, Espresso, Malted (new)

The textures of the shadows in this all-matte palette are super smooth - although I kinda wish there was one paler shade and one more slightly deeper transition shade, rather than 3 soft medium tones which are interchangeable for each other and not all that far apart.

I did the super simple warm look below using:

• Nude - all over lids up to socket line
• Wheat - soft cool-toned beige right in center of lid
• Espresso - in outer corners
• Ink Liner in black - along roots of lashes
• Gel Liner in Caviar Ink - right above the black liquid liner, extended out into a wing
• Eye Opening Mascara in black - on lashes

On the cheeks I used theTawny/Peony blush duo ($70; which is also an Asia exclusive, but you can pick any warm pink blush and bronzer), and on the lips I applied the ever-popular Brown Berry Art Stick ($38), which is surprisingly not as deep and rosy as I had initially expected, considering the name.

This isn't the whole collection of course - there are a lot of stronger lip colors, which are beautiful, but Brown Berry is a great every-day warmer-than-nude shade and this lasts for hours and hours.

YSL Le Cushion Encre de Peau - Fusion Ink Cushion Foundation

Luxe cushion foundation fans in Singapore can rejoice - YSL has launched their new cushion foundation Le Cushion Encre de Peau yesterday in Singapore, and will follow with launches in other markets globally.

[UPDATE] Made an error on my mobile app and accidentally deleted this post - so I had to redo the entire thing; apologize if the content is not 100% the same - I can't memorize what I wrote but my opinion stays the same!

You know my take on cushion foundations in general: I tend to like them more when they come in bottles and tubes (i.e. I don't love the format at all LOL) because I never touch up liquid foundation on top of existing makeup so I don't need a compact. There is also the hygiene factor, value for money and the fact that most of them cannot "set" fully on the skin since they are designed to remain fluid for months in an exposed sponge pad. Might be alright in cooler drier climates, but usually a disaster in humid tropical weather.

They do give a beautiful look if you like a lot of sheen but many of us feel compelled to set them with powder for lasting power anyway. And even then they don't tend to last as well as most regular foundations. 

So needless to say - I was excited when YSL launched its new Le Cushion Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation, which promises semi-matte all-day flawless coverage. Finally a cushion for slightly oilier skins or more hot and humid weather? Yes please. 

Le Cushion Encre de Peau retails at SG$88 for the case and a single sponge, and subsequent refills can be purchased at $58. 

Packaging:

The packaging is a beauty. Glossy lacquered black and gold to match YSL's glamorous aesthetic, and with a little weight so it doesn't feel cheap and flimsy. You can say it doesn't matter but when you pay this much for a cushion foundation that you presumably will bring out for use, you should expect it to look good.

Inside you get a standard sponge pad filled with foundation, and a black and beige applicator puff which is quite soft and easy to work with. (If you've tried many of the traditional or cheaper cushion ranges, the puffs tend to come extremely stiff and rubbery.)

Shades:

YSL Le Cushion Encre de Peau is available in 6 neutral tones in Singapore (B10 to 60), which is great compared to most other cushions. However this only seems to cater only up to around NC42 or so when I swatched the darkest shade here.

We can only cross our fingers that this is only the case for Asia and that they will add more shades soon. I also need a BD (beige dore) which is golden toned but I am not holding out for yellow toned shades anytime soon as most Western brands don't bother to launch a full range of shades for foundations that are not part of their "core lines".

Do bear in mind that the shades do oxidize. I am MAC NC25 and tend to be between 20 and 30 in YSL shades (BD 15 for Le Teint Encre de Peau which runs a bit deeper) so don't just go with your standard color without testing it on your face first. I went with a B30 the evening I first tried this, and by the time I got home later that night it was looking a little dark.

Coverage:

Le Cushion has pretty good medium-ish coverage. In fact similar to the original Le Teint Encre de Peau foundation. Enough for light discolorations but not for full coverage of larger blemishes.

Of course using a puff will never give you maximum coverage compared to fingers. As with all cushions I will use the puff for a first layer all over and then use my fingers to pat on more product where I want coverage.

Finish:

While it is definitely not as shiny and tacky as other cushions I can't say this really looks and stays demi-matte on the skin for long. Also, the more you pat on the dewier and less matte it gets.

It will take on whatever skin texture you have beneath. So if you use a matte primer it will look more matte. If you use a thick lotion it will be dewy. There just aren't the absorbent fillers like talc, clay, silica etc, needed to absorb moisture and change the texture of your skin significantly and keep it matte for hours. I tested it againt the original Le Teint Encre de Peau Fusion Ink foundation in the squared bottle, which I also patted on using the same puff on one side of my face. It was noticeably more matte than the cushion.

With the cushion I find within about 20-30mins this goes to a dewier finish for me. Which I personally don't mind. But if you expect the shine free wear as stated on the box you might be disappointed. 

Lasting Power:

Here's the thing - it doesn't stay demi-matte but it lasts pretty well for me. 

I was sweating up a storm both days I wore this and while it got shinier, the foundation did stay looking even and fresh underneath. No streaking, caking or congealing around pores for me. When I sweat the beads of water don't "lift off" my foundation, and I can gently press the moisture away without messing up my base.

The formula contains acrylate copolymers (the stuff found in setting sprays, sealing liquids and some long wear foundations) - which explains its ability to adhere to the skin and remain flexible without looking or being powdery. 

VERDICT:

This isn't a god-send for oily skinned folks, especially if you have a lot of contoured blemishes to hide. You would need a lot of powder to matte down the shine and hide skin texture, so I find cushions in general are a waste of time for these skin types.

I find this better for combination to slightly dry skins. There are emollients and the formula is not 100% oil free, which makes it surprisingly comfortable even on my slightly dry skin, but if you cannot have ANY oil in your products, then this won't be for you.

The other thing is not a huge deal but I would obviously wear a separate sunblock; SPF23 PA++ isn't really sufficient unless you have dark skin, which ironically - this line doesn't yet cater to. 

All in all though, this IS the least dewy cushion I've tried so far and YSL wins lots of points for at least trying to cater to a different market and focusing on a formula that is more lasting. For me lasting power (how long it stays looking even and fresh on the skin) is more important than how long it can stay matte. I can blot the shine away; I can't fix patchy cakey makeup without removing it.

When I am in the mood for something that is a it more semi-matte I am just personally more inclined to stick with the original Le Teint Encre de Peau because you get the same lightweight feel with a bit more of a true semi-matte finish.

You always get more product in tubes and bottles than in cushions – let’s not pretend – and with just one refill per pack, this makes YSL Le Cushion Encre de Peau one of the higher-priced cushions on the market. But it’s definitely not “just another cushion” in the sense that there is enough differentiation from the others to be worth a look if you happen to be a luxe cushion fan.

Diorsnow "Bloom Perfect" Perfect Moist Cushion - A First Look!

Dior brings out new Diorsnow products around Spring of each year, and for 2016 it's their own interpretation of the eponymous Cushion Foundation which has started invading all the Western brand line-ups after several years in Asia.

Like Chanel's Le Blanc, Diorsnow is a "whitening"/brightening line created originally just for the East Asian market, where there is an eternal obsession with luminous, unblemished skin with no trace of sun damage. Many people around the world are only just learning about how bad sun exposure and photo-damage actually is on the skin, but it's always been a big deal in East Asia, and good formulas are expected to do double-duty - treat existing damage and prevent future damage.

I will go out on a limb and say that good whitening skincare IS often great skincare for treating first signs of aging. I feel the separation of the two lines is more about marketing and selling more products to consumers. Most of the soothing, repairing, and protecting extracts and ingredients in whitening skincare - like stabilized Vitamin C, Licorice extract, or Edelweiss extract which is used in the Diorsnow range - also can protect against collagen and DNA damage.

Dior's put their skincare ingredients into their latest foundation - the Bloom Perfect Perfect-Moist Cushion - which is an ultra-hydrating, protecting, and brightening foundation which promises to both treat as well as protect. If you've used and gotten good results with other skincare products in the Diorsnow range, you will be happy to know they also have two new skin priming products -  the Bloom Perfect Brightening Effect Skin Creator, and the Brightening Makeup Base, which I'll review separately.

I was sent shade 020 in the cushion foundation for review, and it is available in Singapore in only 3 shades with neutral undertones (005, 010, 020,m). It costs SGD$105, comes in a box with two cushions (one in the case, one in a sealed pouch), and the standard issue application puff. I usually dislike all puffs aside from the new Shu Uemura flocked one which is ultra soft and doesn't soak up a ton of product. The Dior is slightly softer and more plush than the average Korean-style puffs, but it's still mostly the same and I still don't love it.

On application, you get a light coverage, but as with most cushion foundations you can pat a bit more on over the first layer to build up slightly. I did find that the Dior does not build up to the level of coverage you get with most classic Korean cushions. The most you will get is light-medium at 2-3 coats. If you need to apply more than 2-3 coats of a foundation to get the coverage you want, you are using the wrong product.

You can see in the before after below that it does even out my skin considerably. I am slightly paler on the brow bones and in the lower parts of my cheeks, and I have some uneven darkness around the mouth and chin, eyes, nostrils, etc which (aside from making it look like I permanently wear brown shadow) can make my face look slightly deeper than my neck. I usually use 021 (medium-light yellow) in Dior foundations and 020 is slightly more neutral/pink than my skin

It does give enough coverage to cover broken veins and old marks from spots, but I had to tap my finger in the product and pat it gently on specific areas where I want more coverage. Brushes, sponges, and puffs will always take some product off. For max coverage, fingers are the best.

(And before you cringe, remember it's a hundred times easier to ensure your finger is sanitized, than a used brush or sponge.)

PROS:

• A good strong dewy glow
• A light feel
• Very fine texture on the skin; doesn't look heavy or unnatural
• Good SPF
• Skincare ingredients
• Puff is a bit softer and easier to work with than many other puffs around

CONS:

• Too dewy for girls with bumpy, uneven skin or large open pores
• Only gives light-ish coverage
• Will not lock on and stay on in humidity or on oily skin - this will rub off and transfer quite easily
• Not enough PA (UVA) protection - I feel on principle every product that has SPF50 should have PA++++, because many people get a false sense of security from using a "50" and think they can skip sunblock, when in reality they are not getting maximum protection against aging UVA rays
• Not enough shades for deeper skin tones - 020 is around N2 for MAC. Diorsnow is a line created primarily for fair-skinned Asian consumers (Japan is a major market)
• Heavily fragranced

So - same story with pretty much every other cushion foundation I tried - they will not really set and lock on and stay intact the entire day if you are oily, or running about in humidity and sweating a lot. Don't even think of using this if you have oily, blemished skin because it makes my semi-dry/normal skin look a bit greasy after 30 mins even with setting powder. You can apply a ton of powder to try and make it last longer but I don't see why you would get a dewy foundation if you are just going to matte it down. Wear it if you have relatively smooth skin, small pores, and just want something to add a youthful glow, hydration, and to even out the skin for a couple of hours. 

My biggest beef with this product is the lack of lasting power. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and then pressed a sheet of tissue very, very gently onto my skin. It came off with a LOT of product.

That's not to say I hate this product. It's exactly what I expect of a cushion foundation, honestly. This is a very fine formula, smells lovely, feels luxurious going on, and has some sun protection and skincare. I just don't love cushions in tropical climates to begin with. If you need something that stays intact all day and can withstand heat and grease or hide large pores, you might want to try the regular Diorsnow foundation, which has amazing coverage, similar sun protection, and a semi-matte finish that will last a lot better.

The Bloom Perfect Brightening Effect Skin Creator on the other hand, is a silky pre-makeup salve which feels lovely and imparts a subtle smooth glow to the skin. I am very excited about, and will post more info after a bit more testing.

Shu Uemura Blanc:Chroma Brightening UV Cushion Foundation SPF50+ PA+++ Review

The cushion foundation that looks natural but has so much coverage that it negates the need for concealer? Shu Uemura's Blanc-Chroma Brightening UV Cushion Foundation SPF50+ PA+++ actually does just that for me.

This foundation feels light on the skin, gives a beautiful believable glow (almost exactly like Lightbulb foundation but much lighter and non-oily on the skin), has hefty sun protection, and an applicator that I like more than any other one that comes with cushion foundations on the market right now.

If you're like me you probably think "what - ANOTHER cushion foundation?? Isn't that so 2012/2013? Well I guess so if you are in Asia, but the trend is still alive and well in the West right now, which is why a lot of the large beauty conglomerates have only just started launching their own versions. 

Shu Uemura's was pretty interesting to me from the get-go because the delivery mechanism is quite different from most. Most cushion compacts will vary only in terms of whether you get a sponge (LANEIGE, Lancome, L'oreal, Innisfree and everybody else) or a metal plate (VDL, Givenchy).

Blanc-Chroma Brightening UV Cushion Foundation (SG$20 for the case, $55 for the refill) launches in March 2016 with 6 shades in Singapore, has a double-layer sponge and mesh to help control product dispensation, and I kinda like the surface because it has a "wiper" technology which helps the product sift out in a neater and more controlled manner. While it's not as hygienic as metal plate cushions which completely block the product off from the air, this still feels a touch better than an exposed cushion.

Shu has a strong focus on applicator tools though. Most of its recent foundation releases have been centered around specific applicators like the Lightbulb foundations.

This is no different. And here's one of my favorite parts. 

The Blanc:Chroma Brightening UV Cushion Foundation comes with an ultra-soft flocked puff, more like the ones you use for powder than typical stiff rubbery pads used with cushion compacts. This puff (SG$8 for a replacement) is much more pliable so you can get into tight corners, and the flocked surface also doesn't drag your skin, or leave you with circular rings around your pores... all things I dislike about typical stiff cushion puffs. The best thing is it blends product out much better as well.

You still apply in the typical patting motion - no pulling and dragging across the skin. And it also washes out easier than those hard, dense cushion puffs. It's a complete win in my book already.

I'm actually tempted to try this with other liquid foundations to see how it works with those!

Now the formula!

Innisfree x Krabag eco-bags

I'm completely obsessed with the limited edition Krabags from Korea that were produced exclusively for Innisfree. I think it might be because the retro floral print looks so Cath Kidston. Ultra shabby-chic!

They're available this month in Singapore, FREE with any purchase of an Innisfree Cushion at SGD$34 (the full case, not just the refill). I'm actually not sure how long they'll be available so if you like the look of these you should go down to an Innisfree store soon.

There are 2 designs and I was sent the pastel aqua one below as part of a press preview, but I LOVED the "vintage-esque" floral print and the quality of these so much that I went and got the other design myself. Never mind that I don't actually need another cushion. And never mind that they were out of the BB formula I wanted. I just like these bags too much.

I never remember to bring reusable bags out even though they're more long-wearing and eco-friendly. Well these are sturdy, comfortable to hold, can be folded or rolled up easily, AND - they look good, so I've not had any trouble remembering to bring mine out to carry groceries or anything that won't fit in my tote. I do not expect anything to come apart at the seams on me - as some cheap dollar-bags from grocery stores were wont to in the past.

Plus they're not hard to throw in the laundry, although I haven't actually tried that cos I'm not sure if they might fade.

When I picked up the white with red floral print, I asked the sales assistant if we could choose the design of the bag we got, and she looked slightly puzzled and said "there's only one design" so I'm assuming you need to go to different stores if you want 2 different designs.

I can't decide which one I like more though. I like both of them equally. They have their charms. On first look, the white and red is prettier, more cheerful. But that soft aqua one really grew on me. It looks more vintage in a way, and I love it.

Whichever you prefer though, they beat the ugly bright green reusable bags you see at the supermarket.