Shu Uemura Skin:FIT Cosmetic Water Foundation

Shu Uemura's launched a rather innovative new foundation formula which combines skincare benefits with a weightless liquid-powder texture that lasts and has much higher sebum-absorption capabilities than the average matte foundation. 

Shu Uemura Skin:FIT Cosmetic Water Foundation with Tint in Gelato AT 02 on lips and cheeks

Just for demo's sake, I actually did not use setting powder for the shot above. For someone with dry skin like me, adding powder on top of this velvet-finish foundation looks way too matte for my personal preference. But if you have oily or combination skin, this would probably work better than typical foundations for shine control.

If you're interested in a more dewy long-wear foundation that's equally lightweight, check out my post on VDL's Beauty Metal Foundation here.

The product has a bi-phase liquid and powder formula which needs to be shaken up before use. 

It also comes with a special dual-sided pentagon sponge with a velvety flocked side which is for applying the liquid, and a regular side which you pat over the applied foundation to set the formula (by pressing the pigments into the skin for a more natural-looking "fit" and absorbing excess solvents).

This formula references traditional Mizu Oshiroi (water foundation) technique used by maiko today, and that was born during the Edo period of Japan (beginning 17th Century).

The liquid is a cosmetic water containing pomegranate extract, a powerful antioxidant, as well as mint to refresh and cool skin in the Summer heat.
The powder blend contains a mix of "smart powders" with perlite to absorb and slowly release water to the skin, airlicium which absorbs many times the amount of oil regular absorbent powders do, and also a soft-focus powder to blur pores.

The formula also contains water-dispersed organic UV filters and provides SPF30 PA+++.

It's important to find out how the formula works because it doesn't feel anything like the usual silicone-y formulas which give you a lot of time to rub and blend. If you imagine calamine lotion, you need to get your skin coated evenly and set the product before it can crease or smear, so make sure you take note of the application steps.

Use it right though, and you get a velvety, air-brushed matte finish that's really quite beautiful.

[IMPORTANT!] Application Steps:

1. Add a couple of drops at the time to the back of your hand and use the flocked "furry" surface of the sponge to pick up the product.
2. Work in sections. This is not the type of foundation you dab all over your face and take your time to blend. Apply to one section/area of the face in a mix of pressing and smoothing motions. Once you get an even application, flip the sponge around and use the regular side to pat pat pat. This patting absorbs excess liquid solvents quickly and helps set the foundation before anything smears or creases.
3. Then move on to the next section of your face and repeat.

Coverage is light-medium. It looks and feels like water but there's actually a fair amount of coverage. Not enough to hide blemishes and dark circles completely, but that's what concealer is for. (I don't believe in blanket coverage over the entire face if you don't need it. Skin should look soft and real up-close.)

If you want an ultra-matte look, you can finish with powder but I have dry skin and did not want to over-mattify or dry out my face so I skipped. 

Laura Mercier Smooth Finish foundation powder in 04

Laura Mercier has long been a brand known for great base products, from one of the first and best known lines of foundation primers in the world, to the best-selling Secret Camouflage, one of my favorite blemish concealers ever.

Here’s a quick feature summary of Laura Mercier’s new compact foundation powder.

• velvet finish
• medium-high coverage
• no sun-screen (zero flashback in flash photography; I checked!)

The great thing is the finish of this foundation powder is matte and velvety, but your skin will look luminous, not flat. It actually contains oil-based conditioners (shea butter and vitamin E) so it’s very good news for slightly dry or mature skins because it won’t emphasize lines as much as most other powder foundations. But here’s the catch; it’s not stellar at oil-control. If you have oily/combination skin, expect to see the shine breakthrough in about 1-2 hours. I’d say this would be better for normal or slightly-dry people who like a velvety finish.

If you love the finish but have oilier skin, prepare to blot every few hours.

Coverage: variable as with most powder foundations, depending how you apply it. (More on that below.)

Shade range: The shades come in yellow and pink based shades but I find even the “yellow-based” ones to be more neutral than yellow. If you use C and NC in MAC, make sure you try before buying because the range might be warmer (pinker) than you’re used to. Also remember there is minimal oxidation, but it will still darken slightly by the end of the day.

A weekend face of the day using Laura Mercier Smooth Finish Powder Foundation.

3 Alternate Ways to Apply your Two-Way Powder Foundation!

Aside from using it with a dry or damp sponge, you can get more precision and a more seamless “second-skin” finish using 3 different brushes. Just remember that this always goes ON TOP of liquid or cream concealer. Not under.

My 3 alternatives to a sponge, for applying powder foundation!

• A regular big face brush: This is the way to get sheerer coverage. Just dust it on like a loose powder to set liquid foundation or concealer. To get a less powdery look, use a slightly smaller flatter brush like Sephora’s flat blush brush #42.
• Eye buffing brush: One of my favorite tricks. Dab the powder foundation on with an eye buffing brush to add precise coverage, set concealer and mask contours over raised spots.
• Flat foundation brush: Med-high coverage with a slightly less powdery look can be achieved by just pressing dry powder foundation on with the flat of a foundation brush. (Demo below.)

To see the full application demo, click here!