Thursday, February 11, 2016

S/S 2016 Makeup Trends and A Chat with MAC Cosmetics Senior Artist Louise Zizzo

Louise Zizzo, M.A.C. Cosmetics' Senior Artist was in Singapore recently to showcase the Spring/Summer 2016 Makeup trends, and along with taking a look at the runway looks of the season (plus some face-chart fun), I was lucky enough to score a quick interview with her.

M.A.C. Senior Artist Louise Zizzo applying lashes on a model

How would you sum up the key looks for S/S16 in one sentence?
Louise: The key looks for SS16 are deliberate, decisive, playful and have a modern sophistication to them.

What are some of the key trends that you expect to extend throughout the whole of 2016, beyond SS?
Louise: The bold lip trend and no-makeup makeup.

Desigual's S/S16 modern retro look with matte orange-red lips, clean skin and black liner

I often feel a lot of modern makeup we see on social media today is actually 50's makeup transposed onto a different color palette. Strong, defined arched brows, overdrawn lips, strobing and sculpting... as a fan of glamorous retro makeup yourself, why do you think these trends keep coming back?
Louise: You are quite right the makeup we see on social media today is based on old school techniques but I think because it is such a process - it gives a feeling of glamour and it can transform you into a completely different looking person. It's playing dress up but for the face!

What are some of the strongest makeup influences/inspirations for you?
1920's, 70's, 80's decades (especially the 80's - that's when my love affair with makeup really began as a teenager).

Colored winged liner at Moschino S/S16

You said once that makeup should be approached with "intention rather than habit". I love that - but for the benefit of the readers, could you elaborate on it?
Louise: We are creatures of habit by nature and it is very easy to apply let's say highlighter because it's trendy and everyone is doing it or someone told us to do it, but our face tells its own story and we know it best, so ask yourself why am I applying this highlighter, where do I actually need it and what is it doing for my features? Another example is concealer, just apply it where you need it - which isn't necessarily all under the eye - perhaps you just need a little in the corners.

What is in your makeup bag right now?
Louise: Plushglass in "Fulfilled" - my fave! Mineralize Skinfinish Natural and Lip Conditioner.

If you were not a makeup artist you would be.... 
Louise: An interior designer.

Thank you Louise!

M.A.C. Spring/Summer 2016 Face Charts
And just for your viewing pleasure, here are the 7 key looks as according to MAC. I have to say I agree with Louise in that strong lips and no-makeup makeup will stick around. In fact they will probably not go away anytime soon and have been a fixture on the runways every season since I can remember. We are obsessed with skin - whether matte, or strobed to the nth degree just to draw even more attention to perfect skin.

MAC S/S16 Trend: Hot Cherry
Matte red or vermillion lips with matte skin, lightly defined eyes and cheeks
Seen on: Zac Posen, Oscar de La Renta (below)

Key Products:
Retro Liquid Matte in Quite The Stand Out, Fashion Legacy or Feel So Grand

MAC S/S16 Trend: Crayon

Full on mono-colored smoky grunge eye embellished with lots of sequins and glitter for texture. Paired with strong lips.
Seen on Manish Arora (below)

Key Products:
Cream Colour Base in Virgin Isle
Lip Pencil in What a Blast

MAC S/S16 Trend: Broken Doll

Oversized lashes and/or dark stained Geisha mouths
Seen on Antonio Marras, Tait, Daks, Marni (below)
Key Products:
False Lash Maximizer
Fluidline Pen
In Extreme Dimension Mascara
Foiled Shadow in Magic of the Eyes (Faerie Whispers)
Lashes – 33, 43, 35, 30, 7

MAC S/S16 Trend: Luster
Clean "no-makeup" look with lashes and hyper-real skin
Seen on: Preen, Proenza Schouler, Alberta Ferreti (below)

Key products:
Strobe Cream
Pearl Cream Colour Base
Luna CCB
Joy Toy – Foiled Shadow (Faerie Whispers)
A Sprinkle Of  Magic - Lipstick (Faerie Whispers)
Midsummer Night - Lipstick (Faerie Whispers)
Gossamer Wing – Lipstick (Faerie Whispers)
Mineralize Skinfinish in Lightscapade

MAC S/S16 Trend: Raw Refined

Tawny lids, natural face, bleached soft brows, little to no mascara
Seen on:  Chloe, Etro, Altuzarra, Blumarine (below)
Key products:
Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Ground Work
Eye Pencil in Coffee
Pink Rebel Lustre Drops

Gossamer Wing – Lipstick (Faerie Whispers)

MAC S/S16 Trend: The Face

Dark lower lash line, bright or bare upper lids, muted matte lips
Seen on: Almeida, Vandervorst (below)
Key Products:
Technakohl Liner in Graphblack
Clear Brow Set
Veluxe Brow Liner in Fling, Omega or Dirty Blonde
Big Brow Pencil in Fling or Coquette
Lip Conditioner (Tube)
Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Camel Coat or Groundwork

MAC S/S16 Trend: Aquatic
Matte yellow, green and/or blue graphic eyes or liner, with tawny cheeks and lips
Seen on: Alexis Mabille (below)
Key products:
Power Point Pencil in Undercurrent
Eye Shadow in Electric Eel
Eye Shadow in Aquadisiac
Eye Shadow in Bitter

My favorite looks are Hot Cherry (I love a strong lip with minimal makeup elsewhere), Luster (you know I'm addicted to my highlighters and "real skin" makeup, and The Face, which draw attention to the undereye, either using neutrals or colorful "under-liner".

Strong all-over smoky colors a la Crayon will always be fun but not a daily thing for me in a conservative work environment.

S/S16 Manish Arora


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