Sunday, February 3, 2013

Orange Candy: Juicy, Bright Orange Lips (and Tips)

Swatches above (L-to-R): Revlon Super Lustrous Lipgloss in Coral Reef,  Milani Mango Mambo, MAC Morange, Lime Crime My Beautiful Rocket, Revlon Lip Butter in Tutti Frutti

Orange is such an eye-popping color that you'll instantly draw all eyes when you're wearing it. Here are a few tips to help you make it work.
  1. What you need to note when choosing an orange is how much red/pink is in your skin. If you have very noticeable pink undertones, choose an orange that has stronger red tones (e.g. Milani Mango Mambo) rather than a true-true orange that has a lot less red tones than your skin (My Beautiful Rocket). 
  2. If you have very pigmented lips, you might need to get more opaque formula (like the MAC or Lime Crime) in order to getting a true orange on your lips. If you're not used to a bright orange or want to tone it down for school or work, go with a translucent formula like the Revlon Lip Butters or Balmstains (Tutti Frutti).
  3. A translucent formula would also work well if you have very pink undertones in your skin, because it allows the pink of your lips to show through under the orange.
Here are 2 ways you can get a variation of looks if you own 2 orange lip products; a translucent one and an opaque one.
1. You can wear an orange-toned gloss or lip butter direct. It will look more coral because of the natural pink/brown tones of your lips.

2. To add a little intensity without going over-the-top, you can add a stronger orange (I used MAC Morange below) onto the center of the lips and then press them together to even it out slightly. 

 This maintains a lightweight and translucent feel, but adds some intensity just around the center so the overall look is more obviously orange.

The automatic reaction is usually to match orange with more warm tones like browns, reds, oranges, golds, and yellows. This works, but it can also make the overall effect slightly sallow or even jaundiced if done wrong. 
I don't like those overly-restrictive color-rules that say "you are Autumn and you should only wear warm/autumn colors on your face." That's like saying you have blue eyes and you should only wear warm bronze and copper shadows so they will pop. Sure, a nice bronze will make blue eyes stand out more. But what about bringing out your skintone? Your hair color? Your outfit? Your lip color?
A great idea is to pair a bright orange with cool tones on the eyes, so the overall effect on the face is actually balanced out, and both your eye look and lip color stand out even more. 
Remember your primary objective is to make the overall look work on your face and outfit. 
Lime Crimemy Beautiful Rocket: Orange lipstick and Indigo lidd tutorial
What goes with a super-bright, true-orange lip? 
Well warm Fall colors like russets and golds would look good, but you can also swing the other way and do contrasting shades in bright tones. To keep things soft, I am using shimmer instead of matte, which would be a bit stronger.
Step 1: I’m using a shimmery dusty blue-purple (try Lime Crime Twilight) for the outer 2/3 of the lid. 

Step 2: Using a soft golden green, I fill in the inner corners of the lid, blending just slightly into the blue. (The Body Shop #44 Single Eyeshadow)

Step 3: Line the upper lash line with a purple pencil (Bourjois Regard Effet Metallise #78 Bleu Chatoyant). Add a pale golden green pencil (Bourjois Contour Clubbing Liner #44 Golden Grey Session) to the lower lash line. 

Step 4: Apply black liquid liner along the upper lash line and then add a pair of false lashes. (Any that are not too cat-like and flared at the outer corners will do.)

On the cheeks:
NYX Cinnamon Blush -  a matte vermillion-orange (red-toned)
On the lips: 
Lime Crime My Beautiful Rocket - a bright true-orange lipstick


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