Tuesday, May 19, 2015

A quick FOTD tutorial: stained coral pink lips and soft lids


Shared a simple FOTD on Instagram and Dayre and was requested to do a tutorial on the look, so here it is!

It's really all about bright "stained" lips, and the eyes are kept quite soft so that the lips can be the focus. And I call them stained lips because they're quite translucent and soft, like you applied a strong color and then blotted it away a bit. It's not ombre lips where the lip color is a different tone in the center or between the upper and lower lips. 

You can do this with pretty much any strong lip color  that you don't want to apply full-on. The only color that wouldn't work for this sort of look would be those dark, almost-black purples. Those would sheer out quite grey and deathly because there isn't enough red or pink undertones in them.



Because we're working with metallics, it's always a good idea to prime the lids well. A good base catches onto shimmery pigments and brings out the intensity and shine.


For the shadow color, try any beige-golden champagne tone like MAC Naked Lunch, Tan pigment, The Balm Mary Lou Manizer highlighter if you are pale, etc. I'm using that bronze-beige pigment which is from the now-defunct brand I Nuovi. But this sort of color is easy to find.



Good brown transition colors like MAC Omega, etc are great. I used a Body Shop shadow called 215 Coconuts About You, which is affordable and a fantastic taupe transition color for the socket. If you have small lids or eyes and apply a shimmery beige all over, it can make your eyes look flat and smaller than they really are, so it's important to add definition back.


Here I simply applied a stroke of Mary Lou Manizer frmo The Balm down the center of my lid with my finger. This way of having a darker shade, and a lighter shade helps to re-establish that 3D contoured look of the eye. 


I used Benefit They're Real mascara and Innisfree Gel Liner pencil in No 9 for the final bit of definition around the lash line. Again, this just helps to add some strength back to the eyes. Pale soft colors can really wash out your features. 




The final effect you want is that of gleaming lids. As if your eye lids were slightly wet/dewy. You don't want the focus to be on the color of your shadow or the strength of your eyeliner.


Next the lips! I'm using OCC's Lip Tar Stained Gloss in New Wave, a bright neon warm pink. And the trick to a long-lasting stained lip is to have layer of nude pencil (I used Make Up Store Nude Beauty) beneath as a base.



This step is optional but I actually often apply a taupe/grey pencil (a brow pencil is perfect) right along the outer edges of the lip to expand them slightly. This works better than using a nude or a colored lip liner, in my opinion, because what you want to do is create that "shadow" that appears on the edges when someone has naturally curved, pouty lips.


The actual color I dab on evenly with a finger, and remove any access. You are aiming to stain the lip liner beneath and create a rose-buddy, soft effect. Not apply a thick coat of color. (That's a nice look too but that's not what this tutorial is about.)


Then to finish I wanted a blush that had similar rosy, warm, and tawny tones in it, so I went for Givenchy's Le Prisme blush 22 Vintage Pink.


6 comments:

  1. that Givenchy prism is stunning. Your eyes look so dreamy. Lovely look.

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