Friday, October 7, 2011

Fall Look: Dramatic Purple and Black Winged Eye

Dramatic purple and black winged eye with Revlon Soft Nude Colorburst Lipstick.
This is a super-dramatic look inspired by images of Fall's dramatic eye liner looks, as well as Swarovski's Wings of Fantasy campaign visuals. It's something of a creative look, but if you're playing a mythical Black Swan for Halloween (not the movie version) this is a simpler and more wearable way to go about it.

Step 1: Use a pointed pencil brush to apply a line of blackened purple along the socket line. (I used a pigment I mixed up myself, but any black will do. Bring it almost to the inner corners but not quite so there's a bit of gap if you have a double-lid. If you have a mono-lid, you will probably need to carefully trace the hollow of your socket with a very light pencil first, as you can't follow your natural crease line as conveniently.

Step 2: The easier part is applying lines along the upper lash line (thickly) and lower lash line (thinner). IMPORTANT: Don't let the lower line touch the inner corner as well. We want a "wispy look" with this, so just end off a little under your natural eye line rather than right on it.
At the outer corner, extend the lower line straight up and out at the same angle as your eye line. Then just simply stop when it meets the top line at the crease. If you need to clean up around the lines, do so with a Q-tip dipped in oil-free remover.

Step 3: Fill in the space in between the 2 dark lines on your upper lid with a sparkly magenta or pink. Dampen your brush slightly so the pigments will adhere better.
Try MAC Reflects Pink if you want this look. If not, any other color and finish would work just as well, including mattes. Just make sure the color can be packed on intensely.

Step 4: Now the black at your lash line is probably faded and diffused, so go over it again with a smudge brush to reinforce the darkness.

Step 5: After applying pale yellow or white liner to the water line, add dramatic false lashes if you want. I used Eylure Nicola lashes, which are flared outwards at the outer corners, and add to the whole winged cat eye look.
Go over the lash band with black liquid liner to hide it if you need.

Finished Look: Note how the pale liner on the water line helps to keep the eye looking "open",. This is especially important if you don't have large eyes.
Also, I love how the dark smoky liner along the lower lashes tapers off slightly without touching the inner corner. This adds drama, and is also a trick to look like you're an expert at applying tapered lower liner. (Makeup artists draw this with a free hand and dip slightly downward at the inner corners, which can be really difficult to get even on both eyes.)

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