Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Pastel Makeup: Givenchy Le Prisme Yeux Quatuor 73 Pastel Model

I asked you guys on Instagram which of the 6 Givenchy eye quads you wanted a tutorial for, and a majority of you guys - unsurprisingly - voted for the toughest one. 73 Pastel Model.


It's gorgeous. 
But as someone with dark eyes and dark hair, I tend to avoid all-pastel palettes because they tend to look better on the pale and fair-haired, with light eyes. 
But you guys chose, so I'm going to show you how I'd work with a palette like this!

First, some tips for working with pastel shadows:
  • Clean up your lower waterline with a light pencil. Pale shadows can make your eyes look less white. This helps to reverse it.
  • If your eye contours are not very defined, shimmery pastels can make your lids look puffy and swollen. Don't apply these pale colors any higher than the hollow of the socket line. The best thing is to add a matte dark definer shade (like dark grey in this case) to the socket line to add some definition back.
  • Apply LOTS of mascara or wear wispy false lashes that aren't too heavy and dense. Pale shadows work well when paired with long lashes, but if you apply too heavy a set of falsies, you just weigh the entire look down.

Givenchy Le Prisme Yeux Quatuor 73 Pastel Model swatches

Texture:
The shades in this palette are very pale and translucent, as you can see in the swatch image. So it's best to apply them over a base so the color holds and intensifies.


Givenchy Magic Khol 7

I used a nice beige-brown metallic pencil (Givenchy No 7) as a base and that worked beautifully. Use any matte or metallic neutral beige-toned base. 



Instead of just applying the shadows directly, it helps to start with a nice soft neutral beige-brown base. The brown will not show up under the shadows but it helps to anchor the pigments.





Green pencil used was a Catrice pencil 060 Don't Be Mean To Green


For the pale green shade, do the reverse and concentrate most of the pigments on the inner corners, fading out along the lash line. This creates a nice ombre-green effect from light to dark.


Make sure you curl your lashes well. the higher and more doll-like they are, the better!

You can keep things as is if you like the softer look, but I personally want more definition along the socket, so I added a dark charcoal grey shadow very lightly.


Instead of applying it heavily into the outer corners of the eyes, I started slightly inside along the socket. The grey doesn't touch the outer corners, which keeps the overall look light and the eye shape more rounded and doll-like. Make sure the color fades away as you move inwards.



On the rest of the face, I kept the colors very soft and marshmallowy as well. 
This is not the sort of look that goes too nicely with a bright red lip, etc. The colors are soft, but the contrasting multi-colored hues are still the main focus, so keep the rest of your makeup soft or they will overpower all the pretty pastels.

Givenchy Le Rouge 102 Beige Plume

Instead of going too matchy-matchy with pink cheeks, lids, AND lips, I used a warmer pink blush and kept the lips a warm nude, and the peach-pink undertone still ties in nicely with the eye colors.
Pastel makeup look

Givenchy Products Used:
  1. Teint Couture foundation
  2. Le Prisme Visage Mat powder in 83 Peach Plumetis
  3. Magic Kohl 7
  4. Le Prisme Yeux Quatuor 73 Pastel Model
  5. Le Rouge 102 Beige Plume
  6. Noir Couture Mascara in black

 

Other Products Used:
  1. Concealer where needed. I used Benefit Fake Up.
  2. I cleaned up my waterline with a matte beige pencil from Nars called Rue Bonaparte. This helps to brighten up the eyes and balance out the lower lids with the pale colors on the upper ones.
  3. The key things I used for this eye look included a medium green pencil 060 from Catrice.
  4. For more definition or to transform the look from Day to Night, you can add a darker matte grey shade to the socket line using a small pointed pencil brush. I used Coastal Scents Burnished Brunette. It looks a bit like MAC Print.
  5. Physicians Formula Sexy Booster Blush for a light warm-pink cheek glow.

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